Fish Haul Creek Park is the one Town beach access that is not really a swimming beach, and understanding that before you drive up saves a wasted morning. It sits at the north end of Hilton Head Island off Beach City Road, and it faces Port Royal Sound rather than the open Atlantic. The water here is shallow for a very long way out, the bottom is as much mud and shell as sand, and at low tide the shoreline retreats across flats that go on for hundreds of yards. Nobody staffs a lifeguard stand here, because there is not much to guard.
What it has instead is everything the busy accesses do not. Four habitats sit inside one small park: maritime forest of big live oaks, salt marsh cut by tidal creeks, beach dune and scrub, and the Port Royal flats themselves. A timber boardwalk runs out over the marsh with a gazebo on it, and a path shaded by palmetto and live oak leads down to the sand. The flats are the best shorebird ground on the island: plovers, willets, dowitchers, sandpipers and marbled godwits work them through autumn and winter, terns and gulls loaf on the bars, clapper rails call from the spartina, and bald eagles and peregrines turn up often enough that local birders check for them by habit.
It is also the best shelling on Hilton Head. The combination of sound-side energy, oyster rakes and long exposure at low water leaves whelks, olives, arks and the occasional shark tooth on the flats. Live shells, sand dollars and conchs must be left where they are; the Town's regulations name them specifically.
The park sits in Bay Gall, one of the island's historic Gullah neighbourhoods, and Historic Mitchelville Freedom Park is a few minutes away on the same road. Mitchelville was the first self-governed town of formerly enslaved people in the United States, established in 1862. Read the interpretive panels before you walk the beach here; the shoreline reads differently afterwards.