Harbour Town sits at the south-west corner of Sea Pines, a horseshoe of shops and restaurants wrapped around a yacht basin that opens onto Calibogue Sound. Charles Fraser had it cut out of marsh at the end of the 1960s, and the decision that shaped it is the same one that shaped the rest of the island: nothing is allowed to shout. Signs are small and wooden, rooflines stay under the pines, and the only thing painted a loud colour is the lighthouse.
The basin fills in season with sportfishers, charter sailboats and the occasional very large motor yacht. A covered pier runs out over the water, and the docks on the north side are where dolphin cruises, sunset sails, fishing charters and the resort's sailing school load. Look across the Sound and the low green line on the horizon is Daufuskie Island, about a mile and a half of open water away.
What most people actually come for is not on the water. The Liberty Oak stands on the harbour green — roughly 90 feet across, propped in places, fenced at the root zone and estimated at something over three centuries old. Under it, most summer evenings from late May through Labor Day weekend, Gregg Russell plays a free children's concert. He has been doing it for more than forty years. Families put blankets down an hour early, and it is comfortably the busiest the green gets all day.
Behind the green, the retail is mostly small owner-run boutiques, galleries and gift shops, with a handful of restaurants whose upper decks point west at the sunset. Beyond them the 18th green of Harbour Town Golf Links runs right up to the water. In April that hole plays with the lighthouse behind it for the RBC Heritage, the only PGA Tour event held in South Carolina, which is why the view looks familiar before you have ever stood in it.
One practical thing to absorb before you set off: Harbour Town is inside a gated community, the pass is charged per vehicle rather than per person, and day visitors are not allowed to ride in through the gates on a bike.